Music producer and composer creates a guide for the charming Morro da Conceição
DJ MAM has been an ambassador for Brazilian music around the world bringing musical styles such as samba, carimbó and forro to countries such as Colombia, the United States, the UK, Denmark, France, Portugal and Cape Verde. But the Brazilian producer, composer and singer keeps his roots firmly in the Cidade Maravilhosa, in Morro da Conceição a neighbourhood in Rio’s port district where he has lived since 2013. From the rooftop of his house, blessed with a privileged view over Porto Maravilha, he puts on editions of his famed Sotaque Carregado party a fun affair where caipirinhas and feijoada abound and guests can get a glimpse of his personal atelier. A real Rio local, DJ MAM provides here his tips for the best goings‐on in Morro da Conceição, a neighborhood which is a real charm in the centre of Rio.
At the bottom of Morro (which means hill) da Conceição is one of the foremost references to African culture and carioca samba in the city, a story with beginnings in the early 17th Century. And the locale maintains its historic and ethnic roots. Every Monday, from 7pm, a samba party fills the open space of Largo João da Baiana, better known as Pedra do Sal. A typically carioca affair: music in the street, free entry and ice‐cold beer. “It’s worth a visit even if its not during the samba party” Mam says, as he makes reference to the historical architecture, the great rock where revelers gather on party nights and the street art that pays homage to Afro‐Brazilian culture. Another great party not to miss is Baile Black Bom which takes place every second Saturday of the month.
Mam’s advice here is to go for a walk starting from Ladeira João Homem, to get to know the quaint alleyways of the neigbourhood, containing incredibly charming colonial house. It is the Port District’s very own Santa Teresa (Rio’s famous bohemian neighbourhood, known for its beautiful colonial architecture). At the top of the hill is a fort that dates back to 1713 and provides a momentary step back in time. “It is an attraction for tourists and cariocas alike” MAM says.
The local establishments provide a great opportunity to discover not only the tastes but the way of life in this neighbourhood that seems more like a provincial town in the middle of Rio. “there is the cosy Imaculada, with its famous bolinho de feijoada and the lively Bar do Geraldinho which serves up a mean sliced salame and honestly priced main courses. On Rua Jogo da Bola, Bar Léo is a good stop for a cold beer and a chat with the locals. Just a little further ahead is Bar do Sérgio which serves the famed delicacies of the bar’s matriarch, Dona Regina,” Mam adds.
“It is one of the marvels of our city, an important cultural legacy rescued from our past” Mam says in praise of this special attraction. The gardens, was designed in the 20th century to be a replica of a French park, was abandoned for many years, until it was given back to the city thanks to the renovation project in Porto Maravilha. The garden is completely brought back to life and today includes a historical trail and the Archeological Collection in Celebration of African Heritage.
Address
: Rua Camerino, 5, Saúde
Schedule:
Sun 10:00 às 18:00, Mon 10:00 às 18:00, Tue 10:00 às 18:00, Wed 10:00 às 18:00, Thu 10:00 às 18:00, Fri 10:00 às 18:00, Sat 10:00 às 18:00
An area famous for its samba, you can’t leave this place out of your carnival itinerary. The Grêmio Recreativo Banda da Conceição is a samba school that was created in the 1970s and in 2014 was revived by the area’s inhabitants to bring back the street carnival to the neighbourhood. “It’s a trip back to the old Rio. Its famous samba chant “I arrived in Mauá” evokes the high spirits of old,” Mam tells us. The carnival bloco parades on the Sunday of carnival.
Address
: Morro da Conceição, , Saúde
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